Electronic Ignition Upgrade

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Electronic Ignition Upgrade
One of the best improvements I've made in the smoothness and reliability to my 510 so far has been to convert from points to electronic ignition. Most conversions I've seen use the Nissan distributor with the module mounted on the side. The conversions that I have done use the Nissan distributor the uses a remote mounted ignition module.

Why I Use This Distributor
I initially used this distributor because I had purchased a '77 200sx to use for parts. I tried it with the GM module because when I parted the car out I didn't realize that the module was remotely mounted. I junked the car with the module still under the dash (or where ever they hide it). I knew that I could get a GM module anywhere and just see if the electronic ignition was a worthwhile modification. I was pleasantly surprised by what an improvement it made in the way the car ran. These distributors seem fairly common in the local junkyards and may be cheaper then other electronic distributors if you point out the lack of internal module. I also believe that if you have the internal module distributor and your module goes out you could bypass it and use a GM module the way I have outlined below.

Why I Use This Module
After I did the conversion I decided to check out the Nissan module. I thought I would take a look at it and see how different it was. At the time I worked a parts house, so I started there. I discovered that this parts house didn't stock any Nissan ignition modules. They could be special ordered for about $130 to $150. The GM module costs $11.99, was kept in stock, and has a lifetime warranty. I decided to stick with the GM module and see how long it would last in the Datsun. After about three months the first one burnt out. The next one I put in I made sure was more protected from weather than the first. I also used a heat sink on it. The GM cars that use this module have it mounted in the distributor. This keeps it fairly well protected. The second module has been running in my 510 for about a year and has had no problems. Even if it were to got out once a year, it's still cheaper than replacing the Nissan module every ten years. If you have a lifetime warranty, all the better.

List of What You'll Need
1 Datsun electronic distributor with the mount
1 coil and bracket from the same car
1 new cap, rotor, spark plugs, and plug wires that fit the donor car
1 GM control module (ask for one out of a '78 V-8 Camero and you should be OK)
1 method of heat sinking the module
2 screws that fit through the holes in the module
2 self locking nuts for above
5 female "blade" connectors
1 female narrow "blade" connector
12-18 gauge wire (about 4 feet)
1 roll of electrical tape
4 spark plugs for model of Datsun you got the distributor from
Plug wire set for same

Adding a Module
Begin by figuring out how you're going to mount the module. I mounted mine on the driver side fender well, above the coil, and between the washer fluid bottle and the V.I.N. tag. Be sure you drill the holes low enough to avoid interference with the boxed channel that runs behind the fender in this area. At first I just mounted the module straight to the fender well. I soon noticed that the back of the module was beginning to rust. It soon failed. Now I use the heat sink off of a '75-'80 Chrysler ignition module. This is simply an aluminum channel that the GM module fits nicely into. Any aluminum channel that is convenient will work. File the little alignment pins off the back of the GM module and mount the module to the fender well with the heat sink in the middle. Be sure to use the heat sink compound (white sticky goo) that the module came with between the module and the heat sink.

Hooking It All Up
Once you get your module mounted install the new distributor. Make sure the plug wires are all in the right order. Next put the coil out of the car you got the distributor from into your 510. Take the Start 12v wire off of the old coil and the Run 12v wire off of the ballast resistor and hook them to the positive side of the new coil. Do not hook up the wire that runs from the 8v end of the ballast resistor o the positive side of the coil. Run a new wire from the positive side of the coil to the "B" terminal on the module. Run another new wire from the negative side of the coil to the "C" terminal on the module. Now temporarily connect the two from the new distributor to the "W" and "G" terminals wires. Start the car. If the car runs but doesn't want to rev up disconnect the "W" and "G" wires and reverse them. The car should run much better. If it doesn't you may have something else wrong with the system. Make sure that there are no loose wires left over. The only exception is the old points wire that will be loose at both ends. Install your new plugs, gapped to the specifications of the car that the distributor came from. Set the timing, and wrap or tie-up the new wires. Now enjoy a faster, smoother, and more reliable Datsun.

See accompanying JPG file for wiring details

Written by: James Spalding