As title suggests,
Also front timing cover for l series 6 cylinder + 4 cylinder may be the same? Just one thats not painted and is clean if possible.
If you have, please contact me asap.
Fanks.
L series TIMING COVER Think 4 cyl and 6 cyl are the same?
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L series TIMING COVER Think 4 cyl and 6 cyl are the same?
Last edited by Flauski on Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:05 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: 240K sump (yeah I know I'm pissing in the wind)
R30's and C31's with L series motors should be the same. I think most LD28's will be front bowl too?
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Re: 240K sump (yeah I know I'm pissing in the wind)
There's an L26, or 28? at Chris's house from a 260c? So chris can narrow down if they had a front sump or not.
They don't call me the man with the rubber arm for nothing you know.............
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Re: 240K sump (yeah I know I'm pissing in the wind)
if your desperate prestons where i was going to get the other parts for you has a l20 in the 240k down there, but he proberly wouldn't seperate from the engine
1973 Datsun 140j, Completed project
2x1972 Datsun 1200 B110 Coupe
1979 Datsun 280zx, targa top, 68.000 genuine km
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2x1972 Datsun 1200 B110 Coupe
1979 Datsun 280zx, targa top, 68.000 genuine km
2x1982 Datsun 180sx
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Re: 240K sump (yeah I know I'm pissing in the wind)
Cheers, hopefully someone can let me know about 240/260c.
LD28 are different I think, maybe more towards the middle?
Here is pics of difference.
240K
Z
LD28 are different I think, maybe more towards the middle?
Here is pics of difference.
240K
Z
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Re: 240K sump (yeah I know I'm pissing in the wind)
Nope Cedric sump is defiantly middle sump as they have big control arm suspension and thus the cross member goes in front of the sump not behind it. I would have thought Zed suspension would have been the closest to K suspension and thus would have the closest sump to what you would require. Otherwise like DJZ has said look for a R30 with an L series this should be the business.
Edit, 260C sump is on the engine. sump on ground is a R33 skyline RB25DE sump.
Edit, 260C sump is on the engine. sump on ground is a R33 skyline RB25DE sump.
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Re: L20E R30 Skyline sump and pickup
still looking for non turbo option L20 R30 Skyline sump.
Re: L20E R30 Skyline sump and pickup
I might have a spare one at my brother's still.
...and yes, L-series Leopard are front sump too. It also might pay to check/try a "middle" or C sump for clearance anyway.
Alternatively, you could cut and shut the bowl of a Z rear sump, they only need moved back about an inch and you could not only use the rear sump (weight backwards) but it saves you having to drill and plug the block itself for the dipstick quandary.
...and yes, L-series Leopard are front sump too. It also might pay to check/try a "middle" or C sump for clearance anyway.
Alternatively, you could cut and shut the bowl of a Z rear sump, they only need moved back about an inch and you could not only use the rear sump (weight backwards) but it saves you having to drill and plug the block itself for the dipstick quandary.
Re: 240K sump (yeah I know I'm pissing in the wind)
No, Preston's has a Skyline 2000GT-X that someone had previously converted to L20ET and it's fuuuuuuucked. Last time I enquired about an engine, he wanted quite a lot and there's absolutely no guarantee with them and you have to buy the whole engine, not just bits.Lang Inder wrote:if your desperate prestons where i was going to get the other parts for you has a l20 in the 240k down there, but he proberly wouldn't seperate from the engine
It's a shame because I would have loved a lot of the interior parts from that car. As it was I have gotten some things from it.
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Re: L20E R30 Skyline sump and pickup
hmm true that. Thanks for the insight. Oh but if you have a spare, mad k33nkyteler wrote:I might have a spare one at my brother's still.
...and yes, L-series Leopard are front sump too. It also might pay to check/try a "middle" or C sump for clearance anyway.
Alternatively, you could cut and shut the bowl of a Z rear sump, they only need moved back about an inch and you could not only use the rear sump (weight backwards) but it saves you having to drill and plug the block itself for the dipstick quandary.