luke wrote:and does anyone know how i can lower a further 40mm in the front?
Just do what i read on here one day and put some spring compressors on ya front springs permanently
Did you end up finding out a price for getting those s13 adaptors made up dude, or can i grab the guys number so i could contact him?
I'm a car painter and did my time in CHC, I now restor cars and build hot rods in Auckland. The best and cheapest way to remove paint, bog, rust etc is to use a large 7inch sanding disc on a grinder/buff. This removes everything while the disc flexes and stops the metal heating up too much. Pitting on rusty areas can be removed with a small belt sander, sand blaster or grinder. Acid dipping removes internal cavity rust inhibitors, sand blasting is ok in SOME areas but is messy and soda blasting isn't recommended as it is messy and leaves a film on the metal wich can cause issues later on.
Use a 2pot acid etch followed by a NON POROUS 2pot primer for best protection after. Epoxy primers are good too buy can be a pain and IMO don't key as well to the metal. If you want paint product info feel free to contact me GL
Tony.buchler wrote:I'm a car painter and did my time in CHC, I now restor cars and build hot rods in Auckland. The best and cheapest way to remove paint, bog, rust etc is to use a large 7inch sanding disc on a grinder/buff. This removes everything while the disc flexes and stops the metal heating up too much. Pitting on rusty areas can be removed with a small belt sander, sand blaster or grinder. Acid dipping removes internal cavity rust inhibitors, sand blasting is ok in SOME areas but is messy and soda blasting isn't recommended as it is messy and leaves a film on the metal wich can cause issues later on.
Use a 2pot acid etch followed by a NON POROUS 2pot primer for best protection after. Epoxy primers are good too buy can be a pain and IMO don't key as well to the metal. If you want paint product info feel free to contact me GL
hey man appreciated help etc but i think you may be a little late here, im well past the stripping stage (car related)
ok everyone, lets talk lowering. (lukes dumbed down version.)
question 1: is it safe to be running a spring shortened 140mm shorter than factory? unknown spring rate but it is progressive
question 2: is this amount of lowering certable? in terms of a tiny spring
question 3: and is an exhaust counted as a structual point as it sits at 105mm above the ground......think the rule is 100mm?
Shortened springs are cool and all that but, they are there to do a job. Go too stiff and you can turn it into an understeering pig.
Progressive should help this, but may not. Measure the coil dia and spring dia and number of coils and I can calculate the rate for you ,but not the progression.
With short struts spring length shouldn't be a prob
question 1: it should be ok, as long as its captive, and might pay to have good shocks to
question 2: from my understanding, as long as the spring is captive and idealy not cut. you dont need cert if the car is above 100 mm
question 3: exhaust is not counted as a structural point. only things like xmembers, suspension parts etc
if lowering a heap, you will most likely have to shorten the strut body as the top of the strut will hit the bottom of the spring hat. IE it will have no travel
is this an issue for being too low from lowest suspension part to ground? i have 95mm clearance.
IMG_20130408_163328.jpg
also have rung wayne martin this evening to come round and give me pointers and tell me what i might need to do etc so i wont do something wrong in the first place (likely), he was more than happy to help me out and will be visiting this week sometime, i realise that he cant cert atm but he still knows all about the rules etc so big help for me!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
GL
