Bro, I tried that 3m product and I STILL couldn't get my rubbers to stick!
You're a machine!! Now come re-do mine! lol
My '72 1600 SSS
-
gingofthesouth
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1932
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:06 pm
- aka: Ging
- Location: Lower Hutt
- Contact:
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
My orangatang 510 here.
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
I'll stick on your door rubbers if you scrape all my remaining underseal! 
Two tricks:
First is I cleaned both the door AND the rubber with this weird Dow solvent that comes in the BMW adhesive kits for spoilers. It seemed to remove a bit of black mould release stuff (and a few imported Thai spiders
) from the new door rubbers. You could possibly use prepsol on the door but I reckon paint activator (like what they use when they glue new windscreens into freshly painted modern cars) would be even better.
Second is that they really mean it when they say that you have to apply it to both surfaces, wait for it to get tacky then stick them together. You still need to hold it on for a minute or two, but after that the rubber should be well adhered.
Two tricks:
First is I cleaned both the door AND the rubber with this weird Dow solvent that comes in the BMW adhesive kits for spoilers. It seemed to remove a bit of black mould release stuff (and a few imported Thai spiders
) from the new door rubbers. You could possibly use prepsol on the door but I reckon paint activator (like what they use when they glue new windscreens into freshly painted modern cars) would be even better.Second is that they really mean it when they say that you have to apply it to both surfaces, wait for it to get tacky then stick them together. You still need to hold it on for a minute or two, but after that the rubber should be well adhered.
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
So I was all keen for a few weeks working on stuff, then hit a bit of a roadblock. In the meantime I did what I do best - buy and hoard expensive parts.
Ever since getting the SK Sanyo throttles of DJZ I've been mulling over what to do about the fuel rail/injector setup. Anyone who's tinkered with the old Nissan L20E/T's etc will recognise the two bolt injector hold-downs that they used to use back when these came out in the 80's or whatever. I could use some SOHC VG/RFB style hose tail injectors, but then I'd have to find or make a hose barb style fuel rail and some sort of brackets to retain it. Another option would have been converting to newer O-ring style injectors but I'd still have to fabricate mounts for a rail.
I figured that sounded like too much of a headache for something that I probably was going to end up hating the look of so I just bit the bullet and purchased a rail kit direct from OER Japan.
I was going to remove those awful brass tapered fittings and retap the rails for BSPP-JIC adapters but there isn't actually enough room to do that, so I'll probably get some Swagelok or similar fittings and use a short piece of 10mm tube to join the two rails.
I grabbed a Nippondenso injector off one of my Celicas to test fit and hit my first roadblock - with these throttles they use an O-ring to seal on the "shoulder" if you could call it that instead of a rubber seal around the pintle cap like most cars. This means you have to use the right shape and length of injector or else the O-ring won't compress and seal. My injector could do with being about 1.5mm longer in order to make that O-ring crush - you can see here it isn't really compressing.
To be continued....
Ever since getting the SK Sanyo throttles of DJZ I've been mulling over what to do about the fuel rail/injector setup. Anyone who's tinkered with the old Nissan L20E/T's etc will recognise the two bolt injector hold-downs that they used to use back when these came out in the 80's or whatever. I could use some SOHC VG/RFB style hose tail injectors, but then I'd have to find or make a hose barb style fuel rail and some sort of brackets to retain it. Another option would have been converting to newer O-ring style injectors but I'd still have to fabricate mounts for a rail.
I figured that sounded like too much of a headache for something that I probably was going to end up hating the look of so I just bit the bullet and purchased a rail kit direct from OER Japan.
I was going to remove those awful brass tapered fittings and retap the rails for BSPP-JIC adapters but there isn't actually enough room to do that, so I'll probably get some Swagelok or similar fittings and use a short piece of 10mm tube to join the two rails.
I grabbed a Nippondenso injector off one of my Celicas to test fit and hit my first roadblock - with these throttles they use an O-ring to seal on the "shoulder" if you could call it that instead of a rubber seal around the pintle cap like most cars. This means you have to use the right shape and length of injector or else the O-ring won't compress and seal. My injector could do with being about 1.5mm longer in order to make that O-ring crush - you can see here it isn't really compressing.
To be continued....
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
Those fuel rails are sweet, did you buy them direct? What were OER like to deal with? Can you shorten the hex bolts 1.5mm?
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
Cheers man, yeah they're cast so they have that correct "old school" look which I dig. They were pretty sweet, the outlet is some weird website which is a bit weird to navigate and you have to use Paypal, but they were great to deal with - I had these about 5 days after ordering them and the shipping wasn't much.DJZ wrote:Those fuel rails are sweet, did you buy them direct? What were OER like to deal with? Can you shorten the hex bolts 1.5mm?
URL is http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I don't really want to shorten the bolts if I don't have to - I'll explain more in my next post..
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
So yeah, I tried fitting the injector with a normal Nissan/Toyota type pintle seal to see if I could eliminate the O-ring totally, but that wasn't happening as the hole in the throttle body wasn't deep enough.
I did notice the injectors have an upper rubber cushion thing at the rail end. Bought a Mr Injector rebuild kit for my Toyota a while ago so I compared the old with the new and it looks like the old one might have compressed a tiny bit but as I'm not keen to start hacking up my nice new rail mounts I think I'll just try to find some Mitsubishi or Mazda injectors and see if they're slightly longer. If that doesn't work I'll probably get some small plastic spacers made up and eliminate that rubber cushion seal totally.
When I bought the rails I also got the OER vacuum manifold too. It looks pretty decent. I was kind of hoping it would have a mount for a IACV on it but I guess you can't have everything.
And even though it's completely unnecessary I bought the Kameari twin-idler too. I have to say the level of quality of this thing is ridiculous. Everything is super close-fitting and beautifully machined. So happy with it - they're not cheap but you definitely realise you're getting great value for money when you look at what you get with it.
I did notice the injectors have an upper rubber cushion thing at the rail end. Bought a Mr Injector rebuild kit for my Toyota a while ago so I compared the old with the new and it looks like the old one might have compressed a tiny bit but as I'm not keen to start hacking up my nice new rail mounts I think I'll just try to find some Mitsubishi or Mazda injectors and see if they're slightly longer. If that doesn't work I'll probably get some small plastic spacers made up and eliminate that rubber cushion seal totally.
When I bought the rails I also got the OER vacuum manifold too. It looks pretty decent. I was kind of hoping it would have a mount for a IACV on it but I guess you can't have everything.
And even though it's completely unnecessary I bought the Kameari twin-idler too. I have to say the level of quality of this thing is ridiculous. Everything is super close-fitting and beautifully machined. So happy with it - they're not cheap but you definitely realise you're getting great value for money when you look at what you get with it.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
I hope you spin it to what they say the tensioner is capable of.
When I had the throttle bodies on the Z I might have double stacked the bottom seal?
When I had the throttle bodies on the Z I might have double stacked the bottom seal?
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
Haven't done much lately but seem to have largely sorted the linkages for the throttles. The OER throttles are kind of like a Mikuni Solex carb in some ways- they have the same 8mm throttle shafts (vs 7mm for DHLA/DCOE) and that also means that it's bloody hard to get linkage parts for them, just like it is with Mikuni's.
All the yanks on Ratsun, the510realm etc. are doing away with the throttle rod and double bell crank setup + assortment of hokey linkages from the pedal to manifold that most 510's with sidedraughts run. The thing to do seems to be get the Lokar universal throttle cable kit and get an interconnecting linkage that joins the two carbs in the middle to make balancing them easier. Apparently it improves throttle control a lot too, which makes sense.
No-one sells the Mikuni style interconnecting linkage new though, so I trawled Yahoo Japan for ages before I miraculously found a NOS setup for sale. Snapped it up quick smart, took it home after work and found it didn't fit! As you can see, the ball stud starts from level in the closed position and goes almost fully vertical at WOT, whereas I need it to start from quite low and up a lot lower than vertical if I'm going to pull it upwards with a cable. Also the throttle open stop is in the wrong place and the boss on the Mikuni carbs is obviously a bit smaller in diameter too. Dang it. I could have hacked this up and made it work, but I didn't want to wreck such a nice, new set of linkages.
All the yanks on Ratsun, the510realm etc. are doing away with the throttle rod and double bell crank setup + assortment of hokey linkages from the pedal to manifold that most 510's with sidedraughts run. The thing to do seems to be get the Lokar universal throttle cable kit and get an interconnecting linkage that joins the two carbs in the middle to make balancing them easier. Apparently it improves throttle control a lot too, which makes sense.
No-one sells the Mikuni style interconnecting linkage new though, so I trawled Yahoo Japan for ages before I miraculously found a NOS setup for sale. Snapped it up quick smart, took it home after work and found it didn't fit! As you can see, the ball stud starts from level in the closed position and goes almost fully vertical at WOT, whereas I need it to start from quite low and up a lot lower than vertical if I'm going to pull it upwards with a cable. Also the throttle open stop is in the wrong place and the boss on the Mikuni carbs is obviously a bit smaller in diameter too. Dang it. I could have hacked this up and made it work, but I didn't want to wreck such a nice, new set of linkages.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: My '72 1600 SSS
Excuse the multiple posts, my browser is weird and likes to log me out after a couple of minutes.
So yeah, I did some more searching and found ANOTHER set of linkages with the throttle shafts at a different angle. They were cheap, looked very well used indeed and someone had already hacked off the throttle stops, so I won't feel bad about modifying these. They are a bit worn where the flats on the throttle shafts go, so I'll have to sort that somehow too. But the operating angle is perfect for a cable pull. For those of you interested, there seem to be 3 different types of Solex/SK/Mikuni type lever and return spring tower out there. From left to right: SK Sanyo/OER, Mikuni type 1, Mikuni type 2 (Toyota style?)
For the throttle cable I bought a scooter cable just to get the 90 degree elbow. I'll use that in conjunction with the Lokar cable kit once that arrives, I'll probably make a bracket that attaches to the manifold where the holes for the linkage bar are.
I also have to drill and tap the bosses on the throttles because although the casting is there, they aren't drilled on both sides. I'll need them all drilled so I can have a mount for the TPS and both central throttle levers. This was pretty scary, lined it up tonight and drilled some pilot holes before realising I don't have a 4.2mm drill bit. Hopefully I drilled them straight enough - I was just holding the throttles with my feet and using a normal electric drill.....
So yeah, I did some more searching and found ANOTHER set of linkages with the throttle shafts at a different angle. They were cheap, looked very well used indeed and someone had already hacked off the throttle stops, so I won't feel bad about modifying these. They are a bit worn where the flats on the throttle shafts go, so I'll have to sort that somehow too. But the operating angle is perfect for a cable pull. For those of you interested, there seem to be 3 different types of Solex/SK/Mikuni type lever and return spring tower out there. From left to right: SK Sanyo/OER, Mikuni type 1, Mikuni type 2 (Toyota style?)
For the throttle cable I bought a scooter cable just to get the 90 degree elbow. I'll use that in conjunction with the Lokar cable kit once that arrives, I'll probably make a bracket that attaches to the manifold where the holes for the linkage bar are.
I also have to drill and tap the bosses on the throttles because although the casting is there, they aren't drilled on both sides. I'll need them all drilled so I can have a mount for the TPS and both central throttle levers. This was pretty scary, lined it up tonight and drilled some pilot holes before realising I don't have a 4.2mm drill bit. Hopefully I drilled them straight enough - I was just holding the throttles with my feet and using a normal electric drill.....
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
classicdat
- Committee Members
- Posts: 3259
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:59 pm
- aka: Vaughan
- Location: Datsun Central, Christchurch
- Contact:
