2 doors 1200 2door sedan / Nearly cert ready

[Datto_610]

[gingofthesouth]

Holy shit I just had a huge grin and felt a wee bit excited reading this thread and then watching that grin on your face in the video!
More inspiration!

[2 doors]

Well how does that saying go.... one step forward two steps back, only in this case its more like four steps back, so on saturday I got the turbo to boost, previously it wasn't, because the hoses wern't tight between the turbo and the the throttle body, bought a boost gauge and just about crapped one when boost gauge recorded 15 pounds with the needle flicking to 20 (not good)

also put new plugs in on sat and a new dizzy cap as the old one was dicked and replaced the condensor, sun saw the installation of the electric fan wiring, so it can stay cool.

so after trying to sort out the misfire under boost, and figuring more revs might clear things out a bit, I managed to blow out the crc red gasket sealer between the manifold and the head, which actually helped as with a massive exhaust leak and less exhaust manifold pressure boost dropped to a respectable 5-10 pounds so excessive boost issue sorted now have a really noisy exhaust.

so then I did what I should have done right from the start and googled you tube how to tune your mega squirt and found that im probably pushing brown stuff up hill, as I purchased a narrow band co2 sensor to run things (as per instructions on megasquirt wiring diagram) and everything I have since learnt suggests wide band is the way to go.

(YES BART I KNOW YOU TOLD ME THIS ON SAT, YOU WERE RIGHT)

Also it appears the way to go is to get some base maps saved up and build things up slowly from zero boost, increasing boost as the tune improves along the way ( very basic description)

so I undid the intercooler pipes again and the car ran heaps better, but while showing off to simon that I have a car that starts and idles with a home made fuel injection system we came to the conclusion that
A its still only running on 3
B it has a noisy exhaust still lol
C there is a small hole in the turbo manifold where all 4 exhaust runners come together to form the turbo flange
D we know this because unburnt fuel was pissing out of it, which helped to prove point A because if the fuel is coming out there, it is after it leaves the cylinder and thus if it still looks and smells like fuel at that point then its not been burnt.

But rather than being depressed im quite stoked , because I can weld the hole , and I suspect one of my leads is dud as all the plugs are new as were the last ones (bought new ones thinking one might be dud)
the cap is new, the coil works at least on 3 of the plugs so should work on the 4th and coil is new.
And if I can get the 4th cylinder to fire it will not only run better but may run better on boost and stop the explosions of unburnt fuel in the exhaust.

But the bad news didnt stop there, I spent some time drilling the broken bonnet hinge bolt so that I could bolt the bonnet on, I was getting nervous that the wind would blow the unsecured bonnet off the car and damage it, so got that done and then bolted the bonnet on, and left the bonnet propped open with a stick which the wind promptly blew up releasing the stick and blowing the bonnet back down with the stick now lying across the edge of the guard thus bending the bonnet, and doing exactly what I was trying to avoid by bolting the bonnet on.

I do know a panel beater.

But then more bad news as I have bolted the castor rods back in I felt confident that I can now use the brakes with the brand new master cylinder and fully reconed slave cylinders, which worked just fine as I moved the car from in front of the garage to just off the driveway and parked it there , only to come back and discover that the BRAND NEW master cylinder had emptied itself of one full cylinder of fluid all over the floor of the car, its just pissed out everywhere.

so all in all not the progress report I thought id be sharing but, once I have the missfire sorted ill have a car that starts and runs even better, on a fuel injection manifold built from scratch and second hand parts , feels pretty good really.

[2 doors]

Another day another progress report , sorted out a bunch of issues all in one hit .
The car was definitely only running on 3 , took the plugs out to check for spark and found that number 2 cylinder was extinguishing the spark by flooding the bores with fuel , it was swamping in , the thing was I had disconnected the megasquirt at the time ,so the injectors should have been closed , so removed the injector and found a rooted o ring .
I replaced the injector with a spare ,and hey presto instant improvement.
I havnt re tightened the hose clips to check on boost but am wondering if raw fuel through the exhaust may have caused the high boost numbers I was experiencing, like hydraulic'ing it.
Idle climbed by 1000 rpm and engine runs nice and even on idle.
I'm currently reading up on tuning the megasquirt , and I was surprised to find I actually understand the process and things like VE and AFR and injector pulse lengths etc.
Still havnt sorted the master cylinder for the brakes though.

[Bartman]

It's a bloody good thing you're bore washing a motor that is already run in/worn out.
That kind of treatment would do all kinds of harm to a freshly build motor.

[2 doors]

Yeah unbelievable aye ,must drain the oil next , as there is no telling how much fuel ended up in the sump, every time I had the key on checking spark and wiring fans it would have been pumping fuel through.

[85_Z31]

Yeah unbelievable aye ,must drain the oil next , as there is no telling how much fuel ended up in the sump, every time I had the key on checking spark and wiring fans it would have been pumping fuel through.

i remember all too well going through this issue, what you can do to help with the bore washing issue is something like this

1) disable the TPS so your idle is running from the main fuel map
2) keep reducing the fuel cells ( at idle until l the motor dies completely ) this will be in 20's AFR range.
3) dump your fuel washed oil ( in my situation there was enough fuel in the oil that the PVC system was cycling enough fuel back into the intake to cause a misfire )
4) with tps disabled crank and try and start the engine from the main fuel map , keep increasing the fuel cells just enough until you get a stable idle.
5) make 100% certain the ignition timing the computer is seeing, matches exactly with what the ignition map is seeing. ( too far retarded timing on a turbo engine can actually melt a turbine wheel, bend a turbine shaft and waste pretty much everything that moves - ask me how i know )
6) at this point ( still with no wide band ) you should be able to do an old school plug check and work out if its running happily on idle

In very general Terms once you get the stable warm idle you can start tuning off boost with a wideband logged against the megasquirt , 14,5 AFR cruising then low 14's to high 13's accelerating off boost )

once you get into 1 or 2 psi of boost you want to be in the low 13 AFR and from 3-5 psi you want to be in the mid 11's 11.3 to 11.5 AFR. this will be nice and safe.

I suggest an EGT gauge is just as important as a wide band gauge. EGT will show high when your off boost timing is a bit low ( this knowlage will help you gain off boost power ) and on boost EGT should never exceed about 900deg, from memory general boost will be in 700 to 850 EGT zone.

if you want to get really anorak you can install an air line fitting in the exhaust manifold pre turbo and directly measure exhaust manifold pressure with a cheap boost gauge.

It sounds like its going a bit far but while the manifold is off it would be very easy to install the fittings.

[2 doors]

Yeah unbelievable aye ,must drain the oil next , as there is no telling how much fuel ended up in the sump, every time I had the key on checking spark and wiring fans it would have been pumping fuel through.

i remember all too well going through this issue, what you can do to help with the bore washing issue is something like this

1) disable the TPS so your idle is running from the main fuel map
2) keep reducing the fuel cells ( at idle until l the motor dies completely ) this will be in 20's AFR range.
3) dump your fuel washed oil ( in my situation there was enough fuel in the oil that the PVC system was cycling enough fuel back into the intake to cause a misfire )
4) with tps disabled crank and try and start the engine from the main fuel map , keep increasing the fuel cells just enough until you get a stable idle.
5) make 100% certain the ignition timing the computer is seeing, matches exactly with what the ignition map is seeing. ( too far retarded timing on a turbo engine can actually melt a turbine wheel, bend a turbine shaft and waste pretty much everything that moves - ask me how i know )
6) at this point ( still with no wide band ) you should be able to do an old school plug check and work out if its running happily on idle

In very general Terms once you get the stable warm idle you can start tuning off boost with a wideband logged against the megasquirt , 14,5 AFR cruising then low 14's to high 13's accelerating off boost )

once you get into 1 or 2 psi of boost you want to be in the low 13 AFR and from 3-5 psi you want to be in the mid 11's 11.3 to 11.5 AFR. this will be nice and safe.

I suggest an EGT gauge is just as important as a wide band gauge. EGT will show high when your off boost timing is a bit low ( this knowlage will help you gain off boost power ) and on boost EGT should never exceed about 900deg, from memory general boost will be in 700 to 850 EGT zone.

if you want to get really anorak you can install an air line fitting in the exhaust manifold pre turbo and directly measure exhaust manifold pressure with a cheap boost gauge.

It sounds like its going a bit far but while the manifold is off it would be very easy to install the fittings.

Translation.........sure I'll help you tune your car wal.

Fuel wash was from a rooted o ring on number 2 injector, not over fueling injectors , timing is done through the dizzy , which has locked internals and is non adjustable via ecu.

Bear in mind I'm not chasing every last hp, I just want it drivable.

[datsunboy]

Translation.........sure I'll help you tune your car wal.

Haha, that's exactly what that means

[2 doors]

Useless update , I finally got round to phoning bnt, in regards to the master cylinder leaking , not sure how senior the person I spoke to was , but I was assured the master cylinder is now out of warrantee , the person on the phone could not grasp the concept that this master cylinder has not actually been used as such , and even if it was put together with a seal round the wrong way , he still reackons it wont be covered by warrantee , the guy was a dick , and told me they only sell the parts , if there is something wrong with it I should take it to safe r brakes, and if they find its incorrectly assembled from manufacturer then it's still my problem not bnt,s . So I will strip it down and try to determine where the problem lies.