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Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:56 pm
by gingofthesouth
Bartman wrote:I've seen that in the Low volume hobby car technical manual too.
I'm pretty sure that only applies to if the factory didn't run them there. There are heaps of repowered 510's kicking around, and I've not heard of anyone being made to re-route that line?
Hope not, but a good point either way.

Been working on the dash and I tell ya, the previous guy who built my 1600 needs a punch in the face!

Not only did he butcher the hell out of the dash loom but also the SSS cluster has been back yard repaired too.
Almost every line in the loom has been cut, soldered (in the ugliest way where its solder blob on the wires but not actually soldered properly, if you get what I mean!) or twisted and covered loosely with insulation tape.

The dash cluster had a broken trace so he managed to get a massive blob of solder to stick onto one trace line that was floating off the board, and insulation taped it to the other side of the broken trace!

I swear these fuck heads don't deserve to own cars. If you are one of those insulation tape, wire twisting mechanics then put the insulation tape down and step away from the vehicle.

/rant

Anyway, I have repaired it, in the process teaching my nephew about soldering. Unfortunately my conductivity pen and real soldering station etc is in the back of storage otherwise I would have just painted on a new trace.

In the end I showed him about cleaning the traces, applying solder to the trace (not the iron!), tinning the ends of the wires and then heating the wire and trace and applying together. He didn't do too bad (maybe a touch too much solder on the centre side of the trace).

Before (and after removing the insulation tape)
IMG_0076.jpg
After:
IMG_0078.jpg
Shitty photos with iPhone 3g sorry.

Here is the condition of the loom:
IMG_0077.jpg
So, considering my soldering station, heat shrink etc are all in storage awaiting movement to the north island, I am removing the SSS cluster + surround and installing the spare standard cluster and the spare loom which is in mint condition.

When I have settled in wellytown I will rewire the whole cluster and mint the loom.

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:50 pm
by gingofthesouth
Door poppers are almost sorted. All four doors, boot and bonnet poppers have been mounted and work. Now to paint the brackets and finish the wiring.

Thanks go to my brother in law for his engineering skills making the mounts for me.

He made an ingenious mounting setup for the rear doors and the boot setup is mint too.
Many more pictures to come but here are a couple.

Rear door popper:
IMG_0084.JPG
Front:
IMG_0085.JPG
Both:
IMG_0086.JPG
Bonnet:
IMG_0083.JPG
Will post all the install photos tomorrow.

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:33 pm
by unlimitedpower
Ive got a couple of the solenoids at home i looked into it so hard to try use them for my boot just couldn't figure out a way to mount it. Never even thought to do my bonnet like that. Very cleaver might be stealing that idea.

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:39 pm
by gingofthesouth
unlimitedpower wrote:Ive got a couple of the solenoids at home i looked into it so hard to try use them for my boot just couldn't figure out a way to mount it. Never even thought to do my bonnet like that. Very cleaver might be stealing that idea.
The boot is cool. Basically I went to the local bike shop and bought a brake cable (inner wire) for $5 and 1.5 meter outer and end caps.

The solenoid is attached a bracket mounted on the back side of the boot (above the wheel arch).

Will go get you some photos.

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:23 pm
by unlimitedpower
Ah yip that makes alot of sense. Very cleaver wish i had thought of that.
I just fitted a boot/petrol release cable from a Hyundai accent. Used a Mk3 supra petrol flap mechanism, Works well only problem is that i need 2X cables the same as the hyundai petrol cable wasn't really the correct one but the cable for the boot works perfectly for both. But im sure i can get a new end attached to it.

Can't wait for my car to return from the painters so i can do an update. Hopefully not long now.
Brett

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:25 pm
by gingofthesouth
More Bonnet:
DSCF1180.JPG
DSCF1182.JPG
Boot. Here is the popper not yet mounted to the side of the boot as I need to paint the bracket (and the boot for that matter). Using bike brake cable and outer and bike brake brackets (round bits where the end of the cable outer sits into with a hole for the cable to go through). Tested it and it works mint.
DSCF1185.JPG
DSCF1183.JPG
DSCF1184.JPG
DSCF1186.JPG
Hope this helps.

(yes I garked it being a dumb idiot with a screwdriver)

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:13 pm
by unlimitedpower
I saw that bet you were gutted,
You kinda did the boot setup like i did except that my cable runs all the way to front of the car.

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:29 pm
by jasace
hi mate looking good. where you get your solenoides from? (door poppers)

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 12:29 am
by gingofthesouth
jasace wrote:hi mate looking good. where you get your solenoides from? (door poppers)
Hi Jason,
From this guy:
http://myworld.ebay.com/hotrodpart/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Re: gingofthesouth's 510

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:14 am
by jasace
gingofthesouth wrote:
jasace wrote:hi mate looking good. where you get your solenoides from? (door poppers)
Hi Jason,
From this guy:
http://myworld.ebay.com/hotrodpart/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
thanks mate