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Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 8:06 pm
by broke
So jelly of your hoist and work area. No excuse for not working on this every night now!
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 7:50 am
by chris_g1
Thats Great news Ging.
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 9:06 pm
by gingofthesouth
I removed the rear drums yesterday but couldn't get the nut off each stop that holds the stubs into he rear arm.
Somebody tell me I am doing it wrong and there is an easy way?
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:33 pm
by Datto_610
I took apart some spare arms recently that weren't attached to a vehicle and all I did was use a pry bar or you could use any long length of steel to lock the hub from moving (through the wheel studs on a diagonal) and then used my power bar to crack the nut! I remember the ones on my 180 were f$!#ing tight! Should be pretty easy to do on that hoist!
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:44 pm
by broke
Yeah, it'll be tight.
When I did the C32 ones I just used a power bar, but I think the old 510 type might be a staked nut? Yanks seem to end up splitting them with dremels etc. to get them off. If there's a bashed in section to stop it turning you could cut that bit off, otherwise just crank on it harder.
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 2:05 pm
by gingofthesouth
broke wrote:Yeah, it'll be tight.
When I did the C32 ones I just used a power bar, but I think the old 510 type might be a staked nut? Yanks seem to end up splitting them with dremels etc. to get them off. If there's a bashed in section to stop it turning you could cut that bit off, otherwise just crank on it harder.
Yep, the old staked nut.
I had a power bar with a jack handle to extend it, then a bar across the studs in reverse and gave it the full biscuit. I tried to punch out the staked nut indentation but that didn't work so well. I think I am going to have to cut the nuts like you said.
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 8:22 pm
by Bartman
Try applying more force. lol
I found some 910 CV rear flanges on the tard once in Auckland. But the seller couldn't get the nuts undone. And I couldn't afford to feight the whole assemblies down here.
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:49 pm
by broke
Ginge can't get his nuts off using force.... Tried buying them a drink first?
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:40 am
by gingofthesouth
broke wrote:Ginge can't get his nuts off using force.... Tried buying them a drink first?
The best advice I have been given so far is to lube the shaft before tried to get my nuts off.
In the end, giving the nuts a trim did the trick.
Re: gingofthesouth's Orangatang 510
Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 9:19 pm
by gingofthesouth
So I have been doing a bit of work on this car over the weekend. I am in the mode of just doing enough to get it on the road. I can re-do it
I spent most of Saturday and part of today sorting through wiring looms in boxes. Finding the best one to start with then started separating it and re-taping it.
IMG_0871.JPG
After looking at the old pic of the engine bay I realised I needed to wire it a little tidier this time (but without being pedantic). That is why I separated the loom out in to its functions and had it ready to remove unnecessary wires. I mounted the fuse box on the ugly kick panels that my car came with (that I will replace at a later date) as I want to hide as much of the wiring as possible.
IMG_1897.JPG
Then I went and installed the steering wheel brackets and hand brake bracket.
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Lastly, I have worked on mounting the heater box (welded one of the mounting holes up and needed re-drilling). Once it was all mounted up I removed it for cleaning and some new foam tape. I have three of the boxes and making the best out of all the parts.
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Cheers to ChrisG1 for answering all my questions