R200 Conversion companion Flanges Question

[sr1600]

Been researching this for a while and thought I had all the bits needed, Turns out i havent.

I have the flanges as per below and thought would take the companion flanges off and swap for the 3x2 CV ones, however Chris kindly pointed out that indeed they are larger spline and dont fit.


The worse thing is I already welded the datsport brackets on for the 1600 arms so would be a real job to modify and put r30 arms like some have done.

I have spend the last week researching the net as to what everyone recommmends/uses and most people talk about dr30 stub axles or the alloy spun adaptors of various varietys which i would like to avoid if i can (although they probably are the easy fix, who said it would be easy). There seems to be heaps of information on the r200 swap side but alot of the CV information seems to be "these should fit" and im wondering what fellow members have done to solve this problem.

Now dr30 stub axles id think would be a little hard to locate, Are there any other models that have the same ones (r30,r31 280zx etc) ?
Also do the brakes still fit with different stub axles.

[DJZ]

The info I've found regarding DR30 stub axles and companion flanges is confusing, some people say they have the bigger spline and then some people say they don't, I haven't physically checked mine yet. 280ZX are all small spline.

You'll also find with the 3x2 axles that there are two sizes for the flange, HR30s have the small size and 5 stud Z31 and HR31 ones are bigger, this means that you can't interchange them.

4 stud Z31 and HR31 axles should have the bigger spline but you'll need to change the bearings and bearing spacers to suit. I've got a pair of HR31 axles at home if you want me to measure them up?

[datsunboy]

I have done this conversion on my old 510, and I'm pretty sure I wrote up a guide on here too.
I can't remember what the flanges I used were off, check the write-up. But the splines of the ones I used fitted perfectly onto my 510 stub axles, no mods required.

[sr1600]

The info I've found regarding DR30 stub axles and companion flanges is confusing, some people say they have the bigger spline and then some people say they don't, I haven't physically checked mine yet. 280ZX are all small spline.

You'll also find with the 3x2 axles that there are two sizes for the flange, HR30s have the small size and 5 stud Z31 and HR31 ones are bigger, this means that you can't interchange them.

4 stud Z31 and HR31 axles should have the bigger spline but you'll need to change the bearings and bearing spacers to suit. I've got a pair of HR31 axles at home if you want me to measure them up?

Couldnt agree more about the DR30 stub axles information seems to be all over the place, Solid info all seems to revolve around the 5 stud conversions but im quite happy with my 4 studs however no one seems to compare 4 and 5 stud differences.
Could be interesting to see the measurements if you have five minutes in the shed some time, but im planning of finding the flanges that fit the 1600 stubs hopefully.

I have done this conversion on my old 510, and I'm pretty sure I wrote up a guide on here too.
I can't remember what the flanges I used were off, check the write-up. But the splines of the ones I used fitted perfectly onto my 510 stub axles, no mods required.

Your guide has gone global !!!! its on just about every datsun forums known to the interweb (there is some modified ones out there too) , However I thought i had all the parts nailed as per your write up to achieve it till Chris informed me and i tryed them for size. Tell you the truth I thought they were a undo one and swap on other so welded my brackets on for the arms, modified the r31 brake caliper brackets to fit 1600 arm.

id be interested to know which flanges im looking for? what bolt pattern were the ones you used?

[sr1600]

Converting a 1600 to CV rear end
Ok, so you have your R200 VLSD bolted up and ready ( along with whatever output shafts and CV axles that it came with ), so now you just need to somehow connect them to the 1600 hubs.

First thing to do, is to swap the 1600 4-bolt uni champion flange, for a 6-bolt CV champion flange.
You can find these flanges on R30 and R31 skylines
you could also get a 4-bolt CV champion flange from a turbo 280ZX or turbo Z31 ( tho I would not recommend these, as they are very hard to find. I looked around all the CV shops in chch, and no-one had a listing for new items, Nissan didnt even believe me that they had CV's! )

The 6-bolt ones are much easier to find, and get parts for.
When you get your champion flanges, get the CV axles with them.

so, undo that BIG ass nut on the 1600 trailing arm that holds the wheel bearings in, and pull the champion flange off. ( now would be a GREAT time to get rid of the drum brakes and convert to disc, and also install new wheel bearings ).

Now all you have to do, is bolt the new champion flange back on, do that nut back up ( as per the service manual ), and flatten the nut lip.

now, install everything back into the car, and you should be at a stage where all you have left to do is make the custom CV axles.

The way I had my shafts done ( and the better way in my opinion ), was to keep one end of the standard Nissan axle as factory, and then chop the other end off ( to the length you require ), and take it in to get machined.
You will need to get a new Spline CNC machined onto your shaft at the correct location.
After my shafts were machined, we hardness tested both ends ( the machined end, and the stock end ) and they came out very close to each other, so no further heat treating was needed.

To determine the length of your CV axles, you will need to do some testing.
take your springs out, leave your shocks in, and bolt everything in place.
now, with a jack, take the suspension up and down through its entire travel ( with shocks inplace ). You should notice, that the length won't change much at all, just the angle at which it operates.
now get it to the point where the 2 CV joints ( inner and outer ), are at the closet to each other.
Now do some measuring, and figure it out.
You want the CV joints to be in the centre of the travel of each CV. so that it has room to move in both directions.

to confirm this, I did a rough CAD drawing in Inventor to simulate it, to make sure the axle length I chose was not going to bottom out at any stage.

Going on my setup, which uses the R30 skyline outer CV's and champion flanges, I ended up using a 355mm shaft ( between centres of joints, not total length ) on BOTH sides.
Please use this as a guide ONLY, and check you own measurements well.

Install your CV axles ( without boots or springs ), and again, go through the suspension travel once more for a last minute check.
Now, install your CV boots and grease, bolt them in, drop the car on the ground, and go give you new diff a good punishing! ( remember to fill it with oil first!....haha )

Possible that I have r31 6 bolts as opposed to r30 ones?

[Bartman]

I too had heard that the DR30 outer flanges had a bigger spline. I have seen with my own eyes that the S12 ones are defenately bigger.
I have a set of Replica HR30 flanges spare if you wanted. They were made by turning the UJ flange off a 510 outer flange, and then having a copy of the 910/HR30 flange turned up, and spigoted to the 510 part. Before being welded together by a very competent welder.

[DJZ]

Possible that I have r31 6 bolts as opposed to r30 ones?

This might be a silly question but do the axles match the companion flange PCD? If you they do and you are set on using those axles you are probably going to have to change the hubs as I don't think you can get a small spline companion flange with the big axle PCD.

[sr1600]

I too had heard that the DR30 outer flanges had a bigger spline. I have seen with my own eyes that the S12 ones are defenately bigger.
I have a set of Replica HR30 flanges spare if you wanted. They were made by turning the UJ flange off a 510 outer flange, and then having a copy of the 910/HR30 flange turned up, and spigoted to the 510 part. Before being welded together by a very competent welder.

Was thinking about this as an option actually how much do you want for them?
Turn the outside down and then maching the other over the top and two circumferential welds, but the internal one would be fun to weld.

Which axles are interchangeable? Anyone know the bearing numbers?

[Bartman]

$80 plus postage.
Which bearings are you referring to?
And interchangeable how?

[sr1600]

$80 plus postage.
Which bearings are you referring to?
And interchangeable how?

Could you send me a pic of them so i can see if there going to work

Also found this link http://datnet.org/topic/334-conversion- ... iveshafts/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;




It would appear that he has used the inner CV's from the donor diff (probably a u12 like you are looking at) and then 280zx/mr30 outer CV's and companion flanges as these flanges bolt straight straight on to datsun stub axles.