Steering upgrades 1200

[Tony.buchler]

I'm about to buy bushes, joints etc for my sedan. Just wanted to check on a few things.
I'm I right in thinking the larger 310 lca ball joints don't fit the standard 110 strut?
The other thing is I'm wanting adjustable tensioner/caster rods. Is there anything local or is maddat the way to go?

[Bartman]

I think 1200 ute steering arms, or maybe even RHL B310 steering arms will fit the larger taper on the longer 310 bottom BJ, and still mate up to your 110 strut.

[b110sss]

Hi Tony,
Have a look on the Pit Road website at their ones- that is the way to go unless you want to fit a female rod end to the end of the radius rod and have a mount fabricated for it to fit on the front rail ( in lieu of the original factory ones )
Do not under any circumstances try to make the standard B110 ones adjustable by extending the thread and using a lock nut on the inner side- they break and if they let go at speed the consequences are not worth even thinking about.
Cheers
Dave

[Tony.buchler]

Thanks guys, I did read horror stories about people extending the threads. I also tried the pitroad website but it wouldn't load. Will try again. The picture I saw of their one looked like the business!
Will try the 310 steering arms, thanks Bart

[Bartman]

Double, and triple check that the steering arm to bolt spacing is the same as your 110 struts first. The steering arms on my 1200 came off a RHL B310. But it was an early one. So I cannot say with 100% certainty that all RHL steering arms will fit. I know for sure that RHL struts run smaller brakes that SHL ones do. (FYI, RHL=round head light, SHL=Square headlight, just incase you didn't know)
BUt you will need B310 bottom arms, and castor rods (Either model) to run the Longer bottom BJ's too. Easy way to tell what they're off is the B110/B210's run 8 mm BJ to bottom arm bolts, and the 310's run 10mm boilts.
AFAIK the GB120 (1200 utes) also run the same bottom arms and castor rods as the B310's too.

[Tony.buchler]

Hmm... Perhaps I will just run the stock ones to get the car on the road and look at getting bigger stuff later. A rose jointed adjustable castor rod also means a lot of hoops to jump through for a cert
Kinda wanted to do it all now and not have to worry about it later. But I guess getting it driving should be a priority

[Bartman]

You can fit them anytime.
But it pays to keep an eye out for the parts so that you have them when you're ready to pounce.

[Tony.buchler]

Think I'll try do it. Don't suppose you know anyone with said parts willing to part with them?
Guess I'll put up a wtb post

[Bartman]

I did have some spare 310 bottom arms. But I might have sold them.

[nzdatman]

I'm going to make some rosejointed castor rods in my coupe soon, could always make a couple of sets. I'm not in a huge rush to make them at this stage though. No idea about certification side of it though, mine is for race only but don't see why they wouldn't be certifiable.
I have a set that I made years ago that I'm not going to use that I would sell but I'm not sure on the cert situation for them either, I used a steering rack end for the ball joint but have since decided it's not the best way to go. Probably be heaps strong enough but I'm not taking the chance.