New Zealand Datsun Club

So have picked up a fast road cam off Facebook for an a series. Thought I better report to the forum to see what the best way to install and the easiest is?

Haven't gone this deep into an engine before, have replaced timing gear though.

I believe I have to remove engine or take the rocker gear off and remove the push rods in order to slot the new cam in? Tip upside down to get it in the hole? Any help or advice appreciated.

Also, I have a catch can set up and over the last 2 weeks it's over flowed with water? No oil. It's been cold, thought it may have been condensation until I checked the oil fill cap and there was nice white sludge on it. How long does it take for your guys catch cans to fill?

Coolant is slightly low, but it seems to sit at that particular point every time I top it up.

May as well just do the head gasket at same time as cam installation. Needs to happen quickly! Have double valve Springs to be ordered from Kelford.

Thoughts on the kvs14d valve springs by kelford? Has anyone ran into issues or had them break? $211 for a set.






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It isn't unusual to see a little bit of white condensation in there if you haven't driven the car much, but that definitely looks like a BHG.

What's the oil in the engine like ?same colour ?if so yeah blown head gasket. I havnt used kellfords springs myself , but for a fast road car they are probably ok , I know guys on here that would not use them under full on race car use though.bear in mind to get the best out of the cam , you should also run a set of extractors and at the least re jet the carb or better yet go for some side draft,s.

Got specs on the cam? Remember to get the lifters refaced to suit the new cam! Also, KVS14D are probably too heavy for a road motor, I'd go for the Kelford singles KVS14.

Cars done about 400kms in last week. Use it as my daily so wasn't sure?

2 doors - oil is normal colour which is weird? I'm a bit wairy of them, they recommended the doubles as he thinks the cam is on the verge of needing them? Have a look at specs attached. Cars got 40mm dellorto side draughts on with extractors and 2" exhaust with single muffler.

Have a check of the specs and see what you fellas think. Im still in college and daily the car so need to keep it reliable, just after some more horses!

http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6131" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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To do the cam your going to have to remove the engine, set to top dead centre on No.1 cylinder, remove the rockers, remove the push rods and tip it upside down to allow the lifters to drop toward the head. Once all the cam gear is removed you can then remove the cam. You may find it easier to drop the sump off as well so you can reach and support the cam as you remove it so you don't damage the cam bearing faces. One of the other guys have already mentioned getting the lifter faces machined to match the cam or you may find you'll get excessive wear on either both the lifter and cam or one or the other.

the fact you'll have the engine that far apart and planning on doing a head gasket why not spend the extra dough and do your rings and bearings. wow just like that its a full engine rebuild

just read your other post.

spend the same if not less money and get an a15 if your wanting real horse. lol.

When I had water in my catch can, it was a cracked head.

If you pulled the head off, have it hardness checked, and pressure tested.
unless your motor has been rebuilt during your ownership of the car, I would not even bother lapping the valves in while the head is off.

In a perfect world, you'll dial the cam in too. You can do it without a vernier cam gear, but you do need a DTI and a degree wheel.
There are loads of how to's on youtube. Mostly on small block chevs.